원정 개요

BC at true Kangshung on Schnieder map
ABC northeast of Nangpa La
C1 near point 6446m
C2 at beginning of face
C3 on face.

C2 made 12th Sept by Campos, Figueras and Sabadell, but down to BC on 13th because lot of snowfall. 16th Campos, Maso and Sabadell up to C2, 17th made C3 but slept in C1 because altitude headaches; slept in C3 on 20th. On 21st Campos and Sabadell up from C3 1:30 am and reached summit at 12 noon in mist - spent 1 hr on true summit. Sabadell extremely tired and descended slowly and at 4 pm stopped at start of ridge on left (not same line took going up) at 7800m-7900m. Scooped out snow and bivouacked with thermol blanket as only shelter; slept a little, had walkie-talkie calls from Maso in ABC and other expedition. On 22nd daylight started on down to C1 where Maso gave food and drink. Had been not at serac at about 6600m by 2 members of Lasa Basque team to help them here; during biv of 21-22 Sabadell 2 toes and Campos 9 fingers some frostbite but will be Ok. Summiter's 1st time in Himalaya. "It's good for first time."

Took skies for descent but not possible above 7200m.

6 Oct - Maso: Cardona helped 2 frostbitten summiters at BC and after they left he returned to climb. He went up from C1 with Basques and French and reached top 30 Sept with 1 Basque (Lasa) and same French and Sherpas. He reached C1 30 Sept in descent while other summiters to C3. He "little sick in the head and go down" and after drink, Ok. He reached BC 1 Oct, same day Maso had left BC (they talked by walkie-talkie).