원정 개요

BC at north side start of East Ridge at foot of rocks.

Very deep snow; had to cross very steep snow slope, was very cold; 200m above climbers were dangerous seracs and avalanche danger. Studer had very cold toes and feared more. Same day all C3 blown away. 2 summiters went down to C1. Frostbite to toes already partly lost on Eiger North Face.

Leitner left few days early: weather had been continously bad and he needed to make arrangements in KTM for expedition.

Heavy snowfall - in 3 weeks only 4 days any sunshine (a few hours in mornings). Wanted to climb above C3 alpine style: with little snow, this would be easy to climb East Ridge this way now deep snow besides no good place to make a C4.