원정 개요

After making C2, down to C1 in deep snow, bad weather and again up in 17th Aug to C2. 18th halfway to C3 and returned to C2; again bad weather; 24th to C3; finally 27th made C4. 28th making way to top, started from C4 at 9 pm, kept climbing in very deep snow to summit for 24 hrs. Martinez stopped ascent at 8050m while Serrano went on to true summit. Martinez stopped at small summit while Serrano went "very long way" to higher summit with 3 Koreans, who had left C4 with 2 Spaniards. None took tent, biv sack; only little food and water. Spaniards and 3 Koreans slept at Martinez biv place and slept in BC, where autumn Catalan doctor gave care. Chopper unable to fly to them at BC because low clouds so left BC on yaks on 17th Sept, arrived Namche 18th afternoon and helicopter from Namche to KTM 19th. 5 members reached C2, only 2 to C3.

* Serrano's trekking agent Kunga Sherpa said about 17 Sept 1993 that Serrano had reached summit on 10 Sept but was giving date as 29 Aug so as not to be known to be climbing in Nepal's autumn season (and thus liable for another peak fee). Korean team's summiter with Serrano, Um, said 5 Oct their summit date definitely not 29 Aug but was 10 Sept. I had pressed Serrano about his summit date on 20 Sept but he insisted 29 Aug was correct.