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Terragona Team to Cho Oyu and Xixabangma

Cho Oyu · 1993 · 가을 (3) · Spain

원정 개요

20th Sept 3 members left C3 midnight (Chinese time) of 14th Sept and 3 am on 20th Ochoa returned to C3 because could see nothing, rested 1 hr and 4 am with stars shining, Ochoa again up. Porta after 1 hr one finger blue and turned back; Castellui had eye problems and turned back with him (Ochoa was ahead of them). He caught up with Americans before 8000m at about 6 am and passed them. After 1-1/2 hours on plateau in boiling clouds thinks he reached main summit at 11:30 am and back at C3 1 pm (Americans back to C3 about 3 pm - Ochoa thinks Americans got to highest summit). 3 members were in C3 on 21st when news came that 2 friends from Catalan expedition, Campos and Sabadell, had reached summit, were in trouble in descent so all 3 tried twice in night and morning to reach them but snow is very bad condition and dangerous so returned to camp twice, waited in camp for friends and after their arrival at 11 am gave them hot drinks and descended with them in help; rested 1-1/2 days in ABC and 24th 3 men up again to C1. Weather now much new snow and strong wind and then down 26th. Yaks 28th so then left mountain. Castellui skied down from C3.

Americans claim that Ochoa did not reach highest summit.

  • 내부 원정 ID1245
  • 원본 EXPIDCHOY93304
  • 대장Josep Maria Maixe
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge-W Face from N
  • 최고 도달고도8100m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유질병 (7)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Josep Maria Maixe PasanoSpainLeader---
Jaume Carrosset GorgasSpainDeputy Leader---
Joan Carles Castellui GonzalezSpainClimber---
Joan Tomas Gebelli JoveSpainClimber---
Rafael Lopez MonneSpainClimber---
Ignacio (Inaki) Ochoa de Olza SeguinSpainClimber---
Joan Porta RuizSpainClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1993 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427801/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-from-the-North-in-the-Post-Monsoon · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·