한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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French-Swiss Team to Dhaulagiri I

Dhaulagiri I · 1993 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at NE Col.

Had 17 days bad weather snow or rain daily after arrived BC. Chamoux left C3 on 6th with 2 Japanese at 4:30 am and on top 2:45 pm in deep snow and back to C3 to sleep.

3 members left BC early because of bad weather and had no time to wait; in BC 11 Sept and left 27th; went to C2 and Gautier to 6700m. Ollagnier also reached 6700m, then had trouble breathing.

26 March 97 - Ed Viesturs (USA) reports that Gustafsson doesn't think Chamoux reached summit; footprints stopped below summit.


Ed Viesturs and Gustafsson - 10 May 99

In lodge in Marpha run by Mr. Bhakti is guest book in which a photo sent by Chamoux after his 6 Oct 93 Dhaulagiri I ascent shows him waving flag from false summit. 2 Japanese were him (not in photo) and Veikka saw all footprints stop here, Chamoux's and Japanese. From false top one can see ridge above but dangerous to go directly to it.

  • 내부 원정 ID1236
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA193302
  • 대장Benoit Chamoux
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8167m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Benoit ChamouxFranceLeader성공--
Jacques GautierSwitzerlandClimber---
Janine GremaudSwitzerlandClimber---
Jean-Pierre OllagnierFranceClimber---
Emmanuel RoussatFranceClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1993 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199422605/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-in-the-Post-Monsoon · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·