원정 개요

BC at Dunro glacier near lake at south end
High point at lower part of NW Face.

No camps above BC; at first very bad weather (every day snow in afternoon) and went to Island Peak to acclimatize; started up night of 2-3 May and at 4 am began ascent from bottom of NW Face at 4900m; till 13:00 hrs climbed easiest part of wall, of entire wall's 2000m; got to 5600m at 13:00 hrs. From 5600m key problem of face: 400m of steep rock wall and expected hard ice but found thin layer of thin ice and below very soft snow; this area possible only if have proper gear and are expert in this kind of technical climbing, both of which this team lacked (if did have special rock pitons and hammock, would take 3 days to surmount this wall); so abandoned attempt. After 2 hrs of climbing big seracs, avalanche which "almost killed us" (ran from middle of avalanche and smaller pieces only hit climbers" nothing serious but painful"). Only 2-3 avalanches in 14 days; lowest part is dangerous from these avalanches; upper part safe. 3rd May in night returned to BC.