원정 개요

BC at normal high BC
C1 east of same ABC
C2 at beginning of Hanging Glacier
C4 at ice hole
High point at West Face.

C3 place for tent so had to carry up platform which installed 24th April (15th April spent night sitting in biv tent). Had slow progress because of route difficulty and frequent snowfall. Attempt on 17th May to move up with C4 tent and gear to make C5 at 7800m and then meet S Ridge at 8000m, but rock is steep and doesn't hold pitons. Did not see any pitons, etc. from any early attempt. Certainly highest altitude of Polish and British effort in 1981 was no higher than 7600m. So down to BC and sent up Sherpas to bring down camps and try normal route. Left BC on 20th (6 members and 3 porters). Made series of bivs: 20th at 6500m, 21 at 7500m, 22nd 4 members and 2 Tamangs on top more or less together, stayed on top half-hour, biv at 8000m at 9 pm; 23rd down to 6300m and 24th BC.