원정 개요

C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col (camp pitched on 20 Aparil first occupied 9 May).

Never tried to climb S Pillar as gear arrived 2 weeks late and route not in good condition; also thought there would be 4 teams on pillar and that was too many. Col camp occupied 9th May by 2 members [Moreno and Onate]. 10th May Ang Rita found almost dead from cooking in closed tent (and did same thing next night). Moreno nursed Ang Rita and gave oxygen; also that day heard Taylor of British calling from 8200m; no British went to help but Basques did and helped Taylor; if did not reach Taylor, who had lost other gear, was trembling with cold (he would have died). Took him to col tent and gave oxygen (put him in British tent). Not possible to go to summit that day, too busy rescuing others including Ang Rita's son, age 21. On 16th May 3 members and 2 Sherpas left col 1 am, 10:00 summit by Onate and Zerain, 10:30 Jangbu, 11:00 Aguirre & 12:00 Ang Rita (probably over 50 yrs).

Sherpa:
Jangbu Sherpa, his full name says trekking agent, Lumsa, Solu (near Salleri),
this is his 1st 8000m summit