원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm (next to Basques at top of camps)
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

On 10th Taylor up from col alone; had arrived with 2 Sherpas and sent them down on 9th. On 9th Scott, Barry, Stephens and 2 Sherpas (who later summited) arrived at col; Scott down on 10th. Taylor left col at 11 pm on 9th entirely alone and without oxygen and on top 11:30 am on 10th. Seen going up on SE Ridge by New Zealanders who overtook him without his snow goggles (he later insisted he wore them all the time - altitude sickness?). In descent fell into small crevasse and now snowblind and extremely tired - again not far above Col fell down ice slope, did on ice-arrest and believes he spent 2-3 hrs trying to get down (had fallen out of sight of others on correct path to col). Finally 10 pm started shouting, heard by Basques who were preparing to go to top and were higest up col and who went up to to him and brought him to col tent in such extemis that he would have died in next half hour; suffering from hypethermia, cerebal edema, snowblindness, dehydration and exhaustion and it was discovered in C2 big toes badly frostbitten and nose slightly frostbitten. No one went up from Brits because 70 mph winds. Taylor failed to respond to torch signals. Taylor refused oxygen for 6 hrs at col but Stephens finally shoved mask on him. 11th Taylor not fit to descend from col and Barry stayed with him while Stephens and 2 Sherpas went down; Taylor and Barry went down on 12th and Taylor got to BC 14th and was picked up by helicopter at BC same day - don't know weather will lose a bit of one toe.

Stephens and 3 Sherpas on 16th from C2 to C4, left C2 5 am and on col 2:30 pm. 17th 1 am Stephens and 3 Sherpas left col 4 am. Stephens and 2 Sherpas on top 11:45 am and back at col 5 pm and 2 Sherpas and back at col 5 pm and 2 Sherpas to C2 same day because feared onset of snowblindness. 18th May Stephens and Sherpa Zambu from Col to BC and all members now in BC but Sherpas cleared camps and down to BC on 22nd May.

Sherpa summiters said Stephens is good climber and led part of climb above col.

Sherpa summiters:
Ang Pasang Sherpa, 28, Pangboche, this his 1st 8000m summit
Kami Tshering Sherpa, 29, Pangboche, this his 1st 8000m summit