원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col (first slept at Col 8 May).

Climbed Khumbutse twice: 1st to fix rope, 2nd to bring down rope: via long couloir to ridge running W and then SW from S Ridge and past on W Ridge to junction with S Ridge. Did not descend into Tibet because that side of S Ridge very dangerous snow conditions; so decided to go into Cwm and try American route onto W Shoulder and 1st camp above BC was at top of icefall (had 1 tent biv. at 6000m on Khumbutse). Fixed rope from C2 towards shoulder; reached 6800m and rope finished.

When returned to BC, Nepali expedition asked help to bring down Pasang Lhamu's body; now lost a lot of time so better to go to top via S Col, combining help to Nepalis and going to top. Waited 10 days for permit to climb American route. On 8th May slept at col total 6 members not to go to summit but to help retrive Pasang Lhamu's body; went to col for summit separately: some tired from retrival body and rested in various camps. Mouravlev went to summit and then helped retrival on his descent; got to top last of all summiters that day.

On 15th May Janochkine to top with 2 Basques and 2 Americans and before 2 Indians. Koroteev 15th May BC to col, wanting to go to top but very tired when reached col and took one day rest, left col 6 am on 17th and reached top after British party of 3 had started down; as he descended, met 2 British party (near S Summit); Sherpa was going down without summiting, but man going up alone.


Altadill (Catalan Everest) - 28 May 1993

Trial by Everest liaison officers at Namche decided 23 May Russian member had sold to a Namche shop 4 pairs of high altitude boots stolen from Korean SW Face team at C1.


British Everest members - 31 May 1993

Russian stole British mats and sold them (also other items). Others stole oxygen and drink and tent at C4.