원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at Col.

Took 1 hr to trek past all C2 camps to this team's C2. This season Koreans (SW Face) charged $200 per foreigner to go through icefall. Tried to make 1st summit bid for 10 May but Pujante hit by block of ice on 9th May while going up between C3 and C4 and Pujante's head cut open and bled profusely and he was brought down to C2 where US doctor (Rabold) sewed wound. Then waited for good weather forecast from British satellite system; very windy from 11th to 15th. C4 reached 15th by Ang Phurba and Pujante (now recovered) and 16th May left C4 midnight, and summited at 10:40 am and C4 at 3 pm and C2 at 7 pm. Pujante and Ang Phurba used oxygen from C4 up because Pujante plans to climb all seven summits and all 8000ers and wanted to be sure to succeed.

Also on 16th 10 pm 4 people started up from col: Blade, Cadiach, De la Matta and Rafols with no Sherpas and no oxygen ever. At 8300m+ Blade and Rafols too slow (had reached col on 16th at 7 pm and were too tired) turned back at midnight or 1 am. 17th May De la Matta at S Summit 2 pm, did not feel able to reach top and returned to col same day; arrived at S Summit with Cadiach who went on alone to top at 3:30 pm alone and back to col 8 pm on headlamp safely and without frostbite.

Others at col wanted to try top on 18th again without oxygen and too windy so down at 3 pm.

Cleaning: BC area much cleaner than in 1982, but Catalans Sherpas cleared away rubbish which they carried to Lobuche.