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Cho Oyu Expedition

Cho Oyu · 1993 · 봄 (1) · Germany

원정 개요

BC at true Kangchung
ABC across Nangpa La and just turned east on Gyabru Glacier
C2 just above Icefall.

First went up Samma Glacier: 3 members, team's strongst climbers, went to see SW Ridge & decided highest part of ridge (above 7600m to 8000m) "impossible for us - afraid of it" & immediately abandoned idea of ridge ascent.

Made BC in usual site for cross-border. C3 established by 2 on 27th. 28th snow, wind and cold, so stayed in camp. 29th 1 member couldn't get started so another member, Seifried went up to top alone, down to C3, packed it up & down to 7000m & slept in Taiwanese C2 at 6400m & slept in Taiwanese tent; Guggemos joined them at C2 & helped carry down baggage. Guggemos had planned summit bid but had to descend with Gruenwald whose feet starting to get frostnipped. Seifried says he reached highest summit. Guggemos demands pictures within 2 months; no one was with him.

Spanish (Basque & Ibanez) say Chinese army caught Germans & demanded money from them.


Kopp - 23 May 93
German Cho Oyu Guggemos

Germans caught by Chinese at Germans C1 which was Swiss-Australian ABC and Kopp saw this: 2 Chinese had old very long rifles and 2 had no arms. Chinese told Germans to come down to Swiss ABC, where Chinese highest official was camped; result was had to pay DM 7500 ($5000) after negotiations reduced price of $15,000 to go on up.

Guggemos had told members in Germany there would be no problem to cross Nangpa La. This not right when members pay DM 13,000 each ($8000) to go with him. Swiss team's Sherpas complained to Tibetan-Chinese about team from Nepal.

  • 내부 원정 ID1208
  • 원본 EXPIDCHOY93101
  • 대장Peter Guggemos
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge-W Face from S
  • 최고 도달고도8188m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Peter GuggemosGermanyLeader---
Johann BaumgartnerAustriaClimber---
Robert GruenwaldGermanyClimber---
Udo LeyGermanyClimber---
Wolfgang SchroemGermanyClimber---
Georg SeifriedGermanyClimber성공--
Erich SteinbergerAustriaClimber---
Andreas TauserGermanyClimber-사용-

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1993 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199422002/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-from-Nepal-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·