원정 개요

Put tent between C2 and C3 because route so long and this camp slept in. On summit push, made no C4 because that would take extra time and weather uncertain: 26th 4 men left C3 at 3 am (leaving 1 Sherpa at C3) and reached summit 4:15 pm and returned to C3 11:30 pm. 2 used oxygen bottles but other 2 bottles turned out to be empty; used from 7200m but finished before reaching summit.

Technically more difficult than Everest. Not many avalanches but on night descent found that a big avalanche had taken away 400m fixed rope (had some moonlight; some had lamps and batteries finished after early morning hour's climb).

In China one drives to BC but in Nepal 11 days to BC and very tired when arrived at BC and all took two days rest at BC. Above BC members carried same weight of loads above BC as Sherpas. Plan was not for Sherpas to go to summit and only one wanted to go to top.

Planned 2nd group to summit but very heavy snowfall night of 26-27th forced cancellation of plan because of deep snow.