원정 개요

BC at lower BC site
ABC at normal BC site.

When arrived at Samagaon expected ABC at snow line and but snow actually started at 3000m; and after camps established, more snow fell and always had to make new tracks. No fixed camps above 6650m. Went up to 7080m and when Sherpas said if no fixed rope (and team did not have much rope) no Sherpas climbing (Austrians used skies to 7080m), made deposit and camped there for one night (now here saw body hanging from rope on serac glacier). 1 May took tent up to 7520m, 4 people slept in 2-man tent and 2 May at 7 am started for summit and at 12 noon reached top in sunny, but very cold weather and strong wind from NW. 50 min on top and 4:30 pm were at 6650m. Had planned to ski from summit, but no Sherpas climbing so left skies lower. Sherpas frustrated because without skis, they waded in waist-deep snow; extra skis used by them to 5700m, but members did not let inexperienced men to use them higher.

With so much snow, summit could not have been reached by members [without skis]. Excellent powder snow for skiing.


Eberhard Jurgalski - 11 Jan 2010

Gerhard Flossmann returned "40 metres below the summit" is stated in the book from Sepp Hinding "Alleingang am Everest."