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Russian-British Himalayas Expedition Dhaulagiri 1993

Dhaulagiri I · 1993 · 봄 (1) · Russia

원정 개요

BC due south of Sita Chuchura and due west of Tukuche Peak
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 on North Face
C3 on North Face
C4 on North Face
C5 on North Face.

From C1 had to go left to get around big crevasse. Above C3 difficult rock like roof tiler, some days covered with some snow, some days bare. 5th May start from BC to go top and 8th May arrived at C4, climbing with 2 tents. 9th made C5, stopped where snow cover began on 10th May. 11th May left C6 at 6:15 am for top; slept little that night at C6 because strong wind. 12th to C4 only because had no fixed rope there.

Route is not easy to find: 60-degree wall but crossed it at 45-degrees steepness - good line.

  • 내부 원정 ID1202
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA193101
  • 대장Sergei Efimov
  • 루트 (Route)N Face direct
  • 최고 도달고도8167m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 10명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Sergei Borisovich EfimovRussiaLeader성공--
Richard Frank (Rick) AllenUKClimber성공--
Sergei BogomolovRussiaClimber성공--
Sergei BychkovskiRussiaExp Doctor---
Alexei LebedikhinRussiaClimber성공--
Merabi NemsitsveridzeGeorgiaClimber---
Valeri PershinRussiaClimber성공--
Ivan PlotnikovRussiaClimber성공--
Boris SedusovRussiaClimber성공사용-
Gia TortladzeGeorgiaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

A Different Way on DhaulagiriAllen, Rick · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Dhaulagiri on Cabbage SoupAllen, Rick · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AJ
· 1993 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199403000/A-Different-Way-on-Dhaulagiri · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1994_files/AJ%201994%2041-47%20Allen%20Dhaulagiri.pdf · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·