원정 개요

BC before gauge through sanga at base of rock barrier - Japanese C1 top of rock barrier.

From 30th Sept all 4 were C3 waiting for better weather. 6 Oct went to high biv at 7600m. Took couple days to make route around considerable difficulties to top. Got to C3 at beginning of bad weather including wind and then too tired to go below C2 which reached 9th evening and then snowfall and very slow descent in deep snow and small avalanches all around. By time they were down, glacier had shifted and very dangerous ice cliffs over hanging route. Ran out of food and fuel on slowed descent and ABC abandoned by Sherpas and Groom in deep snow. Snow conditions had been much better (harder) in August than later. Got to ABC 12 Oct.

Above C3: rotten slabs steep loose rock. Last 300-500m was really difficult; last 150m was on snow and 100m below that was very steep rock gully.

Before established C1 did a recce of W Face of South Spur but too dangerous from avalanching.


Shrestha, Tourism - 18 Oct 83

16 Oct by leader: "We are alive and well. On 8th Oct at midday we reached summit of Annapurna II having climbed its S Face." From 27 Sept till yesterday we had no contact with anyone. We were stuck on the mountain. To be in KTM 19 Oct, leave Nepal 22 Oct.

"We are very late mainly duely to the very high winds and snow."


Kunga Sherpa - 17 Oct 83

8 Oct summit.
27 Sept left BC for C2. C3 established 30 Sept and 1st Oct left for summit but turned back by high winds and snowfall. Remained at C3 for 5 days. On 6 Oct again left for summit having 2 bivs before. In Siklis and we joining them today 16 Oct - plan to reach Pokhara 19 Oct.


Kunga Sherpa - 12 Oct 83

All are well. 4 are at high camp to make summit. Waiting for good weather.
Letter dated 10 Oct am from Kunga's man at BC. Groom in BC, less experienced.


Letter of 20 Sept at ABC from Ang Karma:

We spent 10 days in all at C1 waiting for good weather and taking loads up to the col - C2. On the way there, there is a short section of fixed rope and one evening Lincoln Hall pulled same rocks down on him as the rope was badly placed. The rocks broke his helmet and badly bruised his arm and foot so that he could not walk for a week.

A few days ago we finally made it up to the col: Andy, Greg, Lincoln, Tenzing, Narayan; Mike returned to base because he had some infection.

Ask for tickets for 11 Oct as we will probably be back in KTM on 6 Oct.

C2 at 22,000 ft.