원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
High point at South Col.

Icefall in "horrific" condition with route not having been maintained as promised. Argued with Asian Trekking about this and about the sirdar, Ang Tshering of Khumbu, "unreliable," a drunkard, and the Sherpa team who were "yak herders" (Asian Tkg. agrees sirdar's wages not to be paid) and who once rested throwing rocks at each other (Pangboche men vs Khumjung men).

Icefall very unstable especially at top end, much more so than in spring 1976 when Neame was on Everest and "took its toll on people's nerves." Above 7300m totally different wind conditions from those below. Had cursory look at S Pillar, but early on hoped to beat the winds (jet stream) with push on normal route, which had more ropes left from autumn rather than fixing pillar, where no ropes to be seen and no platform ledges also. Route to C3 appeared on 28th Nov but not occupied until next day by Harry Taylor alone after Sherpa turned back 150 ft below camp site because it was cold and windy (Sherpas given same clothing as members). Now in early Dec, a period of high winds to 9th Dec, during which stocked C2 and C3. Weather forecast that 9th and then on 13th would be good; 9th wasn't. C3 occupied on 12th but now forecast unfavorable and down again (skeleton crew at C2 and others to BC). Forecast next for 19th (on which date Sherpas fixed route to col with Mike Smith below them a bit; some of route already fixed well) and Smith spent 8 nights/9 days continuously at C2, 3 nights alone. Sherpas ignored instructions, on 20th dumped oxygen at yellow band instead of col and descended to C2 instead of C3 only.

Now Sherpas made a nonsense of logistical plans. 23rd forecast to be good. On 21st Smith joined in light snow showers by Taylor, Tinker, Duff and Pelkey in C3. 22nd 4 members planned to move to C4 and Sherpas to carry loads to C4 but no Sherpas moved out of C2 that day because slight mist. With forecast that jet stream would sit overhead from 25th indefinitely, light push on 22nd seen at last chance and was made by Taylor, Smith, Pelkey and Duff from C3, picking up oxygen at yellow band with biv at col and Taylor and Pelkey to top on 23rd. On 22nd, 4 set off for col at 11 am (late to minimize hours at col and C3 very cold till sun reached it at 10:30 am), Pelkey slipped on fixed ropes at yellow band in fresh snow on top of ice and ripped shoulder muscles, all 4 going very slowly with heavy loads, fresh snow underfoot and worsening weather so at 4:15 pm gave it up at 7900m because facing "an epic at the col" (Smith) in wind and snow, were going slowly, due to Pelkey's shoulder, Duff unwell from believed onset of cerebral edema and toes freezing (other 2 OK). Slept in C3 but Pelkey on verge of hypothermia and had to put up another tent which took long time.

Then storm worsened that night:
C3 - 1 of 2 tents destroyed

On 23rd and 23rd/24th night:
C2 - 6 of 9 tents destroyed and 2 destroyed but usable
C1 - 2 of 2 tents destroyed

BC - really untouched

All in BC 24th except Neve. Descent from C3 to C2 had been an epic in itself. In cwm 120 mph gusts on 23rd and temperature below -30 degrees centigrade day time and night, "flesh-freezing kind of cold" (Smith whose cheeks had sunface frostbite).

25th morning meeting decided no more attempts: "weather forecasts" for next week at least (Jan no success in past), damaged camps would have had to be rebuilt, "useless Sherpas" and "state of team" with few potential summits in tents of experience and remaining strength (only Neve and Neame still fit and experienced) so "what was point of continuing, acclimatizing risk with little chance of success?" Smith: "I think we should have gone back" after several weeks" rest.