원정 개요

Aota left C1 at 6 am and reached top 2:25 pm and down to C1 at about 6 pm; no space for all at top C1 site. On 6th Ono and Sasahara to their own C2 and to summit on 7th: Sasahara at 1:55 and Ono at 2:25 pm and back to C2. These the climbed normal route.

Yamamoi from same BC soloed W Face: 5th Dec from BC to bottom of face (which had no snow) at 5200m and sleep in biv here; 6th Dec biv at 6300m at 6 pm after 14 hrs climb up face without rest (big wind but blue sky). 7th Dec to top at 11 am; biv on 6th on SW Ridge and thus on normal route and on 7th he descended normal route to 5700m, where he biv and slept and to BC 8th Dec (Aota to BC 7th, others on 8th).

Put fixed rope on normal route but used ropes from autumn (Koreans fixed new rope). On face Yamanoi fixed 4 pitches (50m each pitch) in a climb of 5.9 grade 70 degrees rock and ice. These 4 pitches on rock section marked by X on postcard - a little falling rock on face route but he was not hit; was not wearing helmet because that would obstruct his vision upwards; no falling seracs. Expedition's liaison officier and Koreans saw him climbing face and Onu saw his tracks for 20m on ice below where he joined ridge.