원정 개요

Garrido went into icefall 20th Dec to see how route was but was very weak from too fast trek to BC (4 days from KTM/Lukla to BC) and did not reach C1. Went to Pheriche 26th Dec to recover while Iman Gurung, Ang Tshering and Ang Nima repaired icefall route and returned to BC 3-4 Jan. Then 1 week some snowfall, foggy, wind. 15th Jan all 4 men up from BC to make camp at 6500m at normal C2 site with one tent and all loads. Garrido 1-1/2 hours behind 3 Nepalis, who would pitch camp and return to BC while Garrido climbed. But Ang Tshering going fast through icefall even in dangerous places; at 6300m he fell into crevasse slightly hidden by snow (but there were British fixed ropes, but he didn't belay). He fell 150m in crevasse and couldn't be seen and too dangerous to descend into it because of ice overhangs; all survivors to BC.

Garrido waited for Ang Tshering relative to come and also to engage another Sherpa to help remove all British equipment at the end. 26th Jan 4 men again up, but route in bad condition and took long time to get through icefall; reached C2 site on 27th and 3 Nepalis down to BC. Garrido went to C3 site 1 Feb, tried for S Col but got only to 7750-7800m, above yellow band and bived there in bad night because placed tent badly; stopped here because not strong enough to go higher. 4 Feb very cloudy and snowfall and decided to go down. These days very cold but not very windy. 4th down to C2. 5th terrible windy day - couldn't move, 6th good weather but arrived not strong enough to go up and decided he needed a week in BC to get stronger and down to BC on 6th. Then decided to give up: too short time left to recover and try again.

Would like to do solo from north side with no icefall problems. Want to go next winter if Tibet Mountain Assn gives permit. Likes winter with snow very hard and perfect to walk and a little more difficult and more exciting "with no one else around."

Garrido arrived BC 18 Dec and British left icefall equipment for him (for $4000). Reported to have been sick and gone to Pheriche to recover until early in Jan.


Neame - 5 Jan 1993

Handed over by British: icefall route, ladders in Cwm, tent at C3 and ropes to South Col and 3 Sherpas maintaining Icefall.

Garrido had chest problem but probably at BC or above by now, He said he was prepared to wait until mid-Feb.