원정 개요

C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on SW Face (same as Bonington)
C4 on SW Face (same as Japanese)
C5 on SW Face (start of Bonington couloir)
C6 on SW Face above rock band (same as Bonington and Japanese 1991).

After C4 established, fixed ropes directly towards top to make new route. Reached 8000m at bottom of rock band, then down to consider situation. Considering lack of good acclimatization, no Sherpas to carry loads, would too long to open new route so decided on 7th Oct to abandon plans for new route and following Bonington route. 18th Oct Gonchar, Pastukh & Svergun reached 8500m; Gonchar got frostbite fingers and Pastukh infection and down to C2 while Svergun stayed at C4. 19th Oct Svergun to S Summit in dark with no watch and headlamp batteries dead; waited for moon to rise but was time of new moon at place where he found ropes but where he was doesn't know. Started freezing in very cold night; very dark night and very steep wall, but he had no new ropes of his own. Then after 3-4 hrs wait very strong wind came up and he decided to descend and reached C4 at 4 am. Now he couldn't breathe (pul. edema?) and found very big oxygen bottle, took oxygen from it without gear, descended with it on rope, taking oxygen from it occasionally and reached C4 20th about noon. Left C4 and again down that aft/eve and arrived at C2 4 am of 21st again with his oxygen bottle sliding before him, helping him to avoid crevasse as well as continuing to supplying occasional oxygen and on 21st afternoon left C2 and arrived at BC at 9 am. Had used expedition's own oxygen and mask in C2 and to BC with others. When arrived at BC doctor heard lungs and thought now pneumonia and spent that night oxygen at BC.

Pelle's expedition had left tent and supplies at S Col and thought Svergun might go to col. Turkevich and Obichod had gone to this col camp for 2 nights in worst wind. Turkevich had even seen and been in broken tent. Made no attempt on summit because winds made this impossible.

2 more attempts for top via face but both stopped by winds at C4 on 21 & 24th; finally on 25th brought down C4 & C3 gear.

Profit - Lhotse S Face more difficult than Everest SW Face by Bonington route; but if making direct route up Everest face to summit, forcing rock band 6400m high then Everest SW Face more difficult.

Profit - 5 Nov 92: Svergun still says he doesn't know his highest point. There was a big wall and a number of fixed ropes, but it was a dark night and he confused by lack of oxygen. It is not possible to climb in the S Summit gully and is necessary to climb to left or right of it. Perhaps he went to left and behind S Summit.