원정 개요

C4 at South Col.

On 25th 4 summiters and Ang Rita left C4 1:30 am and reached S Summit 12:00 in little wind; had to open the way in not very deep snow as first to try for summit. 28 people left C4, but only 8 members of all expeditions and 2 Sherpas reached S Summit (Pasang Lhamu was in group of 28 and reached only 8300-8400m). Ang Rita turned back at S Summit because of wind and Hillary Step dangerous. 2 French reached Hillary Step and only 4 people to top, which reached at 3 pm in strong wind, but could stand up - found nothing on top. Was clear weather at high altitudes. Returned to C4 at 8 pm. Descending on 26th Felix could not see at all well.

Bereziartua arrived BC 26th Sept from Cho Oyu. Left S Col 2 am with 2 French, including woman, 1 French Sherpa and 1 Lux, but 1 went faster and top reached 8:50 am (at time Lux arrived S Summit). Lux on top 10:00+ am; French and their Sherpa 8600m only.

* order on top:
25 Set - Eguillor and Fernandez; Alberto and Felix Inurrategi 10 minutes later.
1 Oct - Bereziartua at 8:50 am; Luxembourger from Muller expedition 1:00 pm.
3 Oct - Tomas, Reparaz and Tous together at 12:10 pm


Tous - 12 Oct:

Ang Rita used oxygen in night of 24th in C4 because had stomach trouble, but did not use next day above C4. On 25th did not want to go to top, but was told by Spaniard you are Sherpa and he tried for top, but stopped at South Summit.


Egusiktza - 28 Sept

Pixti and Fernandez badly frostbitten toes and F pneumonia also - by helicopter to KTM today.

Very late on Friday - Ang Rita back at South top not on summit; brothers without oxygen and others with oxygen on top 3:10 pm; brothers quickly down others slowly and at 8700m biv at 6:00 pm and down next am to Col. Juan Tomas doctor diagnosed pneumonia. All to BC Sunday.

Brothers to South Col after dark Friday; Alberto tripped there and pulled knee ligament.