원정 개요

1st summit attempt on 25th Sept by 2 members who reached S Summit and stopped by wind. 2nd bid from col 27th aborted by wind, except Tardivel who went up alone & stopped at S Summit to C2 in 4-5 hrs, skiing below col between S Pillar & Genveva Spur. 3rd bid on 3rd Oct when stayed 2 nights at col; on 4th 2 members reached 8100m & quit because of wind. 9th Oct finally had success; 1 member without oxygen reached 8600m, realized he was too slow & gave up.


Batard - 8 Oct 92

Batard arrived 12 Sept BC and started up on 16 Sept to C2. 17 & 18 Sept C2. 19th to C3 and down to BC to rest (C4 already there; stayed 15 mins). In BC 20-23rd to C2, 24th to C3. 25th to 7500m, then down because saw summiters going very slowly and not now good and (on this down Pasang deposited supplies at South Summit); Batard BC. 28th 5:00 am from BC and in 10 hours at Col but many clouds so stopped at Col. 29th started up at 5:30 am but "was not so well in my head" because believed wind starting when it in fact was not windy. Reached 8300m quickly but then felt cold and returned to C4 to sleep and at noon down to Lobuche to meet Bruno and Jean-Michel. Stayed at Lobuche 2 days and on 1st Oct to C2. 2nd Oct reached Col and really strong wind; slept at Col. Now on 3rd Batard and Asselin and Gallet amongst 40 people at Col; only Spanish took a risk and went to top while Batard and 2 French to BC: climb finished for them because tired "and Oct is the time for wind" - this was enough. To sleep on summit, Batard needed good weather. Had now abandoned Everest and wants to do difficult technical route alone on South Face Nuptse.


Batard - 1 Sept 92

I want to be the 1st man to sleep in highest point on earth. Medical experts say dangerous to sleep there without oxygen but Batard says: "No, it is not dangerous for me." Danger is on top early because Asselin and Gallet take pix of him there and then they descend - arrive top 3:00-4:00 pm and then Asselin and Gallet to South Col to wait for Batard. Best time to try for top is full moon time (11 Oct).

Not to compete with Iman Singh Gurung in his bid to scale Everest in 20 hours unless Gallet and Asselin are sick and cannot ascend with Batard, in which case Batard perhaps goes up quickly.

Iman can succeed in 20 hours if gets good acclimatization but not because exhausted on Xixa.

Return KTM as soon as possible.