원정 개요

C2 slightly lower than most others
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Stayed a few days at Pyramid's at Lobuche (5050m) for physiological tests and then to BC. We went upwards to S Col, "fixed the rope" and put deposit at col on 22nd but slept there on 27th only. On 28th 1st attempt with 4 Sherpas and 7 members with more than 15 kg of scientific work (altitude measurements) of tripod, satellite recorder, etc. Left col at 3:30 am ("too late") and of these S Summit reached by 3 Sherpas and 5 members. Two Sherpas ran out of oxygen at that altitude [and Chamoux without oxygen] turned back because of getting late. 4 members and 1 Sherpa on top at 2 pm and back to C4. 29th Chamoux with Santin left S Col and reached top, taking along equipment left by others at S Summit, left C3 at 3 am and on top 10 am; spent more than 2 hrs fixing equipment and contacting Chinese in Tibet and Italians at Lobuche and they beamed light from Tibet and laser from Nepal, contacting satellite, etc. to measure altitude. 30th Blanc and Vesga left Col and on top.

Had to pay 2nd royalty to change route from S Pillar.