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Amical Alpin Everest Expedition 1992

Everest · 1992 · 가을 (3) · Germany

원정 개요

25th Sept 10 people from 3 expeditions reached S Summit (22 left S Col from 3 expeditions) and 5 of the 10 got frostbite or other dangers (eye and knee). This was this expedition's 1st summit bid by 7 members, Nima Temba & Dawa Tashi and all reached at best 8400m before turning back. Dacher not well, Djumovits reacting badly to anti-frostbite drug, strong wind, waiting for very slow Spanish to fix ropes to and up Hillary Step.

27th 3 members & Sonam Tshering intended to leave C4 but too much wind and down that day.

3rd Oct attempt planned by Dujmovits, Etschmayer, Pinn, Ratteit, Reichen, Respondek, Treibel, Dawa Tashi & Sonam Tshering from C4 but not above C4 on 3rd and slept in C4. On 4th all down except Djumovits and Sonam Tshering who went to top.

Last people hoping for another summit bid gave up on 6th because of weather.


Ministry of Tourism - 8 Oct 1992

Dujmovits and Sonam Tshering on 4 Oct left Col 2:45, on top 9:07 am in bad weather, on 25 minutes on top, 4:30 pm at C2.

Sonam's 4th ascent Everest; Dacher to 8400m without oxygen.


Letter to Miss Hawley - 8 Oct 1992 from Ralf Dujmovits

After having seen the 25th of Sept already up to 8500m without oxygen I spent some rest days in BC. (My stomach had not accepted a "Adalai", our doctor gave me at 8400m for a frozen food too).

The 2nd of October me and some of my members went up again to C2 (6500m). The 3rd about twenty French and Spanish and three of my members climbed from C3 to South Col. Also me and two of my group climbed from C2 to South Col. On arrival it was already very windy, so spent a horrible stormy night (without oxygen). Only three Spanish Juan Thomas, Pedro Jose Tous and Mikel Reparez started and reached later the summit.

We spent the whole day on South Col (using from time to time oxygen). The next stormy night started. At 2:45 together with Sonam Tshering, our Sirdar (3 times summit), I started from South Col. It was still more stormy than the night before, but less cold (-24 degree C). After 2-1/2 hours we reached the South East Ridge by changing the guide role steadily. At 8:00 reached the South Summit, Sonam 10 minutes later. It was terribly stormy. 500m long "snow-flags" were blown from ridge into the sky.

9:00 clock me and 10 minutes later Sonam reached the summit. From the new Italian and Tsering Tripole/ took off a Sashe flag. I took some pictures of Sonam and summit. Sonam of me also.

At 12:30 after a difficult descent in the incoming storm we were bad in South Col, at 1600 o'clock in C2.

After my calculation after 13 years I was the 14th German on summit. The 13th German was Schmatz. For Sonam Tshering, it was the fourth climb to summit of Everest.

All other climbers of my team have abandoned their attempts and we finished the expedition.

Yesterday at 9:30 Michel Vincent, leader of French-International expedition, had reached summit alone. Up to now (8 Oct, 6:30 am, -12 degrees inside but cold fingers for writing) we have received no other, no more information about him.

  • 내부 원정 ID1186
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER92306
  • 대장Ralf Dujmovits
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 14명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Ralf DujmovitsGermanyLeader성공사용-
Michel DacherGermanyClimber---
Johann (Hans) EtschmayerAustriaClimber-사용-
Matthias PinnGermanyClimber-사용-
Rodja Lars RatteitGermanyClimber-사용-
Jakob (Kobi) ReichenSwitzerlandClimber-사용-
Matthias RespondekGermanyExp Doctor-사용-
Walter TreibelGermanyClimber-사용-
Nikolaus Von SchumacherSwitzerlandClimber---
Diego WelligSwitzerlandClimber---
Rafael WelligSwitzerlandClimber---
Dawa Tashi SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Nima Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Sonam Tshering SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1992 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199321700/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Post-Monsoon-South-Col-Ascents-and-Attempts · 1992 · 웹사이트 (5) ·