원정 개요

Approach: Jeep to KTM to Taksindu. Walk from Taksindu to BC via Sarsabeni.

BC 08/10 4680m at northern shore of Dudh Kundha Lake
ABC 10/10 5700m, two hours before bergschrund
Biv 18/10 6900m near the summit just below the SW ridge under a serac
Smt 19/10 by all members at 10 am.

Team stayed in Sarsabeni for three days before establishing base camp at the northern shore of Dudh Kunda Lake. They had first gone up to the BC site on 05/10, but there was too much snow. Eventually they were able to establish BC on 08/10.

On 10/10 they went up for acclimatization and established ABC at 5700m, also looking for the right approach to the face and a good line to the summit. Slept two nights at ABC, on 12/10 down again to BC.

Distance BC to ABC: 4.71 km.

Approach to the face very complicated, over heavily crevassed, fast changing terrain. They used a drone to search for a good approach to the entry of the face and it proved very useful. South face starts at 5900m, rising for more than 1000m to the summit. Their plan was to climb the most apparent and obvious line in the wall to the summit.

On 16/10 team went up again to ABC. On 17/10 they had planned to go for the summit, but a member forgot some of his equipment, making them to turn around at the bottom of the face and return to ABC. Another night in ABC and on 18/10 set off again at 3:15am. Initial plan was to reach the summit and make it back to ABC in just one day. That’s why they only carried day packs, no sleeping bags, no food, no tents, just a bivy tarp for basic protection.

First 2/3rd of the wall very pleasant, sustained and safe ice climbing with good ice conditions and plenty of options for protection. The part with the most technical difficulties was the lower part of the wall. A big issue was the rockfall halfway of the climb, forcing them to deviate from the 2016 Spanish route, traversing the face left over rock slabs at 6450m.

This was when Barmasse was hit by a chunk of ice on the shoulder. Rockwall was dangerous in parts, but elsewise it was safe, good-quality climbing.

Overall, the most challenging part, not from a technical, but from a mental point of view, was the part in between the last rocks of the face and the SW ridge exit, about 250m over a steep slope with unconsolidated, loose snow.

Team hadn’t planned on bivouacking, but it was getting late and everyone tired, so at sunset time decided to bivy under a snow cornice just below the SW ridge exit at 6900m, not far from the summit. First there was no wind, but around midnight the wind picked up to around 60km/h. Spent the night perched under the bivy tarp in high winds and -25°C without sleeping bags. Forecast was not 100% clear, it turned out windier than forecasted.

Highest priority during the night was not to get frostbite and to keep the spirits high, telling jokes to each other. “We were not fighting for our lives, but for our fingers”. They had gas and a stove, but no food, and stove was only partially working, as everything was frozen. They were busy the whole night boiling little quantities of water, no sleep possible.

In the morning wind eased, but they could clearly see change of weather, they knew bad weather was coming soon. “It was the moment to go to the top and come down quickly”. They continued at 8:30am, last part from the bivy to the summit along the SW ridge was easy, just deep snow. Once the ridge was reached, the difficulties were over.

On the summit at 10am, stayed just a few minutes for photos. There was no discussion about the descent, everyone knew the only way down was descending the SW ridge. Rappelling the south face was “nonsense”, too dangerous and lacking options for protection. Descent on SW ridge proved to be tricky nevertheless, but relying on their instincts, it went rather smoothly. First half was walking terrain, second half with multiple (between 6-7) rappels through a hanging glacier.

Reached ABC at 5 pm. Barmasse continued down to BC, because he was worried about his bruised arm. Others stayed at ABC for the night, and down to BC on 20/10.

Left BC on 22/10. Two rest days at BC, then to Taksindu on 22/10. On 23/10 by jeep to KTM.

Crux : Final 200-250m before gaining the SW ridge: loose, unstable snow, impossible for belays. It was especially mentally committing, as it would have been hard to turn back in case of a forced retreat, downclimbing or finding another way down.

All in all, team was very lucky with the weather and the general timing of expedition. Had they come earlier, they would have been hit by the snow blizzard at the start of October, and after summiting, the weather worsened again. Very good weather on summit push, except for the very cold and windy night.

Climbing route: South Face, descent via SW Ridge
Estimated grade: ED-, WI 5, M4
Route name given : Nepali Ice Spa

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Records: First ascent of South Face to the summit; first alpine-style ascent.

Accidents, injuries, etc:
• Barmasse hit on right arm/shoulder by chunk of ice. Bruised, but nothing severe • Bielecki sick with gastric problems at the start of first summit push.
vomiting and feeling weak. He felt he would slow others down and wanted to
quit, but others insisted on going together as a team.
• Bielecki also got hit by a chunk of ice on his right knee on the approach
to the bergschrund. It hurt but he was able to continue.