원정 개요

C4 deposit made by 25th Sept but not occupied before 30th because of acclimatization. 1st Oct summit bid from C4 by Berger, De La Ferriere and Muller. Berger to top, but De La Ferriere was without oxygen and too difficult and Muller returned with her (his wife); all 3 in C4 that night. Hubert arrived at BC very late and tried for summit on 9th Oct from C4 and stopped 8100-8200m because intestinal problem.


Letter to Miss Hawley - 15 Oct 1992
From Berger Eugene

I was member of Bernard Muller's expedition. A first attempt was started from C2 on Sept 26 but because of strong wind we (Bernard Muller, De La Ferriere + Ang Phurba) went back to BC.

After two days of rest we started again on 29 Sept (BC -> C2). 30 Sept (C2 -> C4) we reached C4 at 16 hours approximately.

On 1st of October I started together with Basque climber Jesus Extaniz (?) at 1 hour 30 in the morning. Bernard Muller, De La Ferriere and Ang Phurba started 1/2 hour later.

I had the same ryhme as the Basque climber but in the following I was waiting two times 1 hour (more more?) for my team members who were slowly because Lawrence didn't use oxygen. I had French oxygen but it causes some problems, mask freezing, bottle screw was unfit. Meanwhile the Basque climber went to top (9-10 am) I was waiting at about 8700m (ridge below south summit) the last time for my team members. There we decided that I would continue alone, the others went a little higher but turned back soon. Just below south summit I met Basque climber who came down from summit. I reached south summit at 11:29 am. The final ridge was very steep and unfortunately I damaged my balloon (oxygen) with my ice-axe any many oxygen was going out of the balloon not in my mask but in the air. So the last 100 meters were really hard for me, really the hardest thing I ever did in the mountain. I reached top on 1:45 pm exactly. On the top I saw the Italian "tripod," I took some photos (you find hereby). The Basque flag was also on the "tripod."

After 5-10 minutes I went back. The descent without oxygen from the top was really hard and I could reach south col at 17:30 just before darkness, where I met my team members again.

2 October I went back to BC.