원정 개요

Aosta Kimshung 2025 Expedition

Approach: Langtang trekking to Kyangin Gompa

Arrival: KTM on 02/10

Left KTM on 04/10 during the cyclone and stayed in Syabru Besi till 06/10 due to bad weather.

BC 08/10 4100m
C1 11/10 5000m (behind glacier) good conditions to climb to C1
C2 12/10 5400m (top of the glacier)
Smt 20/10 by Cazzanelli, Vidoni, Waldner, Zoerer at 12.30 pm.

During 1st rotation, Cazzanelli and Vidoni stayed one night at C1, touched 6000m and then climbed down to 5400m where they put up a tent to stay the night. On 13/10 back to BC.

On 16/10, the pair touched again 6000m from BC to check conditions and returned to BC the same day.

Summit push with the two Austrians, Lukas Waldner and Benjamin Zoerer.

On 19/10, summit team started from BC directly to C2 which took them 2-½ hours from 1 pm to 3:30 pm.

On 20/10, they left C2 at 3 am. At 6 am, they arrived at the bergschrund, which marks the start of the route at about 6200m. Climbing up to bergschrund involved breaking trail through deep snow, however, from the bergschrund onwards, conditions were perfect and they could climb on ‘Alpine Ice’.

Up to the bottom of the summit slope (6500m), they pitched the climb, however, as the summit slope was very steep (about 60 degrees) they stopped pitching but roped up. They placed a few snow stakes, but according to Cazzanelli, they were to give them some security and make them feel better. They probably would not have held them, had they fallen. The snow was too sugary up there. The four climbers spent about 20 minutes on the summit, downclimbed the slope and once they got to the notch at about 6500m, they rappelled (12 rappells). They descended all the way to BC after the climb.

They climbed in alpine-style on mixed conditions.

The two Austrians, Waldner and Zoerer were initially in a separate expedition, however, they decided to join forces and summit together, which worked very well. They were on a slightly different acclimatisation schedule. According to Cazzanelli, the pair slept at 5400m on 15/10.

Left BC on 24/10 to Langtang and Syabru Besi on 25/10;