원정 개요

Approach: Lukla, Khumbu trail, Chhukung

BC 02/10 4700m at Chhukung (lodge Kangri Resort lodge)
ABC 24/10 5400m
HPt 26/10 6400m on ENE Ridge by Lucien Boucansaud

Arrival in KTM on the 29 Sept.

• Island Peak (permit taken with 7ST)

First snow falls occurring, he waited in Chhukung on the 4-6 Oct (80cms of snow had fallen!).

10 Oct: went up to the top of Island Peak, sleeping on some platform located 5m under the summit. Perfect night, with no wind. On the day after, went back down to Chhukung.

Resting period for a few days.

• Ama Dablam speed ascent (permit taken with Subash Sherpa/Himalayan Vision)

15 Oct: from Chhukung to Ama Dablam official BC (15 kms+).

16 Oct: 8:10 up from BC to summit, 13:17 round trip from BC (+3050m, -3050m). Without using the fixed ropes, except in the steep section of the Yellow Tower.

17 Oct: back to Chhukung (15 kms).

Aimed for the ENE ridge from S, via Col 6464m (HMG Finn Map), in fact the same line as Japanese in 2003 (KGRI-031-01). To be noticed that the approach up to the 6464m col was prone to objective risks.

20 Oct: went to Lobuche via the Kongma La Pass.

21 Oct: deposited a 25k gs bag full of gear afoot of KGRI, on the glacier at circa 5400m. The distance from lodge to that ABC was about 8 kms in distance, the latter ABC being roughly located afoot of the West Face of Pumori and south of Khangri Shar.

Next spent a few days in Lobuche.

24 Oct: started from Lobuche lodge at circa 9 am, with additional 8 to 10 kgs of gear this time. During that approach, he didn’t feel good, having eaten something wrong in the lodge, only Coca Cola being accepted by his stomach.

25 Oct: first wanted to get back to the lodge, but with a burst of energy he decided to reconnoitre the route and went up to 6000m, roughly down to the col’s south face difficulties. As the forecast predicted first signs of the Cyclone Monta for the coming days, he knew he had to try his luck on this short remaining weather window. Eventually slept at the tent that night.

26 Oct: started from tent at 3:00 am, then pushed up to the 6464m col in great compact snow, the col reached at 7:20 am. Then went further up onto the ENE Ridge, about 50m above it. Even if he felt that it was definitely possible to reach the summit on this day, as he was too cold, lacking of energy following his stomach ache, he stopped at circa 6400m (6470m for strava; 6350m for his perturbated Inreach device) at 8:30 am. Col being located at 6464m/6479m on various maps, high point might have been higher (circa 6510m). The route to the col had been circa AD, AD+ in alpine grade. Then the section of ENE Ridge climbed was rather technical, with mushrooms to negotiate, in a rough D or D+ alpine grade.

Then he went back down to his tent, where he paused for 1 or 2 hours. Then he reached Lobuche at the beginning of the evening, having taken with him a little quarter of his total gear.

27 Oct: as this day was the last weather window to take back the remaining of his gear afoot of the face before snow, he went back up and took it all back to Lobuche.

28 Oct: 1st day of snow, rested in Lobuche.

29 Oct: departure from Lobuche.

It was the 7 th attempt to climb the peak.

“I will go back there in March, having left my gear in KTM. Everything was ready to make it this time, except my stomach and the cyclone”.

Climb abandoned on 26/10 due to illness => exhaustion

Left BC on 29 Oct (Lobuche)

Route: ENE Ridge via E Col from S (same as Japanese in 2003)

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Other peaks: AMAD