원정 개요

Report from Sophie Lavaud:

Approach: Nar Phu, Konga La, Tilicho Lake, Humde

BC 06/10 4830m
C1 10/10 5450m
C2 11/10 5980m (below the big crevasse)
C2 18/10 6500m
Smt 20/10 by Lavaud, Dawa Sangay at 9 am.

On 1st rotation, team touched 6400m and descended to BC and remained there until the summit push which started on 17/10. Team went straight to C2, on 18/10 to C3. First summit push started on 19/10. Pema and Gelu left at midnight, rest of the team at 1 am. It was very cold and windy. Pema and Gelu radioed Lavaud and Sangay that they had run out of rope at about 7000m, so Lavaud and Sangay decided to turn back after climbing for about 2-½ hours. Simon Niklaus, Nawang and Oleg Kiriyanov continued. At about 7000m, Nawang’s crampons broke so he turned back while Niklaus and Kiriyanov continued. At about 7300m Niklaus turned back as it was too windy and he was climbing alone (Kiriyanov was ahead of him).

Kiriyanov climbed up to Pema and Gelu, who had stopped at about 7500m on the ridge. As they had run out of rope and it was very windy, they turned back and returned to C3.

Second successful summit push

Lavaud and Sangay left C3 at 11 am on 19/10. Weather was better and less windy. Difficult terrain as it was over ridges curving around up and down. “Super long summit day” according to Lavaud. The rope was fixed until 7000m and even though Lavaud had hoped that the Namas team would fix the rope to the summit, she was disappointed as they did not bring any. So they continued without a rope. The stayed on the summit for about 20 minutes and returned to C3 where they arrived at 3 pm. On 21/10 back to BC. Left BC on 23/10.

Oxygen: taken and used by Lavaud from 7200m to top to 7200m. All others no O2.

Fixed rope: 3200m


Namas Adventure team on SST permit:
Michael Calvert
Jayden Duxbury
Yi Schuler
Shu-Han Yu
Lloyd Ellis
Per Ostman
Juan de Dios Bolanos Quesada