원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 at North Ridge
High point at North Face in traverse from North Ridge.

No C3: tried to go to top from C2 but bad snow at 7900m and decided to put a camp at 8300m but no one could reach this altitude. From C2 on 27 Sept by Fuster, who reached 8100m and turned back with cold feet and bad snow conditions (hard cover on powdered snow) and lost too much energy and returned to ABC. 1st Oct Sala, Verzaroli and Fuster in C2 to go next day to make C3 at 8300m, but winds so strong could not go as high as 7900m and back to ABC. Stayed in ABC, tried again: same 3 got to C2, but tent broken and not possible to put another tent, so back to 7650m where Taiwanese had camp, more sheltered from wind and or Taiwanese Sherpa helped put up tent here. Stormy night and on 10th down to ABC while Giabiati stayed at this camp at 7650m; he went up on 10th to C2 to retrieve gear only.

Climbing route was from east side of col to col, up N Ridge to C2 & then across N Face towards Great Couloir.