원정 개요

ABC at east side of base of North Col
C1 at North Col
C2 at North Face.

Originally had C2 at 7800m on face but too exposed to wind and moved to sheltered spot 50m lower. Carried loads to 8150m on 2 Oct, trying to make camp at 8300m but winds atopped them at 8150m. 10th Oct tried again but could not go above 8200m because of wind and deep soft snow, so collected cache at 8150m and down to C2. 11th Oct tried again but only 8050m because wind and can see only 10m ahead because snow swirling in and footprints quickly erased; 20m to ABC - winds continued and on 15th collected goods at C2 and C1 & down to ABC. 17th to Rongbuk monastery BC. Climb finished.