원정 개요

Report from Valerie Babanov

Approach: Pangboche

BC 16/04 5350m
C1 19/04 6000m
C2 20/04 6440m
C3 27/04 7100m
C4 07/05 7900m (on 3rd rotation, it took him 7 hrs from C3 to C4)
Smt 19/05 by Babanov, Pasang Dukpa at 5:40 am.

After his third rotation, during which he slept at the South Col, Babanov did not feel very well and he went to Namche Bazaar on 09/05 to recover. After four days at a lower elevation, he helicoptered back to BC on 13/05 and started his summit rotation. However, he felt very slow. The first time him and Mingtemba went through the icefall to C1, it took them about 3:20 hrs, during his summit rotation, it took him almost 7 hours.

On the summit push, Babanov and Mingtemba Sherpa reached C2 on 15/05. They both felt very bad as they had a bad cough. Mingtemba decided to go down to BC and Babanov stayed at C2. He stayed at C2 and tried to find another Sherpa. He eventually found Pasang Dukpa Sherpa, who already climbed Everest on 14/05. On 17/05, Pasang Dukpa and Babanov climbed to C3 without O2. Babanov intended to climb without O2, but his cough did not improve and on his way to C4 he started to use O2 at 7300m.

On 18/05, summit team left C4 at 8 pm. It was not as crowded as the day before. No waiting but it was very windy. Changeable weather. Good conditions. When they reached the summit, the met many people who came up from the north side. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C2 where they rested for a while and then they went to C2 where they arrived at 12:30 pm.

On 20/05 BC and then heli from BC to Kathmandu.

Oxygen: Babanov intended to climb without O2, however, he started to take it from 7300m to summit to C3. Pasang from C3 to summit to C3.


Report frm Jing Zhang

Approach: Pangboche

BC 5350m
C1 6000m
C2 6440m
C2 7100m
C4 7900m
EVER summit 14/05 by Zhang at 8.03 am
LHOT summit 19/05 by Zhang at 9:45 am.

I carried my skis all the way from BC up to 8250m by myself. On May 14th at 8:03 am, I successfully summited Everest, then returned to 8250m in the afternoon to attempt skiing - where I suffered a fall and the ski-descent failed. On the 15th, I went back up from C4 to 8200m (this time with my skis carried by Sherpas) and successfully skied 2.09 km down to C4.

On the 15th, we descended from Everest to C2 due to deteriorating weather conditions. Then at 9:15 am on the 18th, we set out from C2 and successfully summited Lhotse the following morning (19th) (I'll verify the exact summit time tomorrow by checking my camera metadata).

Then on May 19th at 9:45 am, I reached the summit of Lhotse. The following day (May 20th), I skied 4 km from C2 to C1, this section was completely safe and absolutely enjoyable.