원정 개요

BC northeast of big lake
Cache below and right of normal route, where snow began
C1 at top first rock rib (normal site).

One section of 50 ft vertical ice at serac band 100m above col required ability to climb ice (which Canadians and Dutch felt they couldn't climb without ladders). Americans and Swiss managed with Swiss passing Americans on summit day after Americans had broken trail through deep snow and tired. No technical difficulties except serac barrier; turned by serac barrier to the left, then swung far right on Tibetan side. On 22nd weather broke, got much colder but stayed clear into late afternoon (before 22nd had been wrapped in clouds many days).

1st summit bid 18th Oct by Hartl and Rosencrans from C1 got above serac band (at 6620m to 6670m), to c6860m and stopped by less than 50 ft visibility because were in thick cloud; down to BC same day.

Same 2 members left BC on 20th for other bid, slept in C1 and left camp on 21st at 2 am and summited at 12:30 pm in snow generally knee-deep snow (sometimes thigh deep and with crust 1/3 of way). Dietrich only other member strong enough to make a summit bid and he got sick in middle of month with rales in one lung. Only members who slept at C1 were Hartl and Rosencrans; Marcienvicius went to cache only, which ment no climbing by him.