원정 개요

John Black - 11 Aprl 2035

Approach: Trekking to BC

BC 25/03 4100m
C1 28/03 5180m
C2 29/03 5500m
C3 06/04 6400m
Smt 07/04 by Warren Eva, Kaji Sherpa at 9:15 am

Summit push started from C3 at 7:20 pm on 06/04. Black unhappy with general circumstances on the mountain and he felt he wasn’t in ideal conditions for the summit, especially concerning acclimatization. Very dry conditions, lot of ice, no snow. Very dangerous especially between C2 and C3. Very difficult to acclimatize, they went up to C2 only once, no rotations for acclimatization.

Black and Nima turned back at 6600m at 9 pm. Next day down to BC. They were descending from C3 at 5700m when they saw the avalanche burying two Sherpas. They were just 15 minutes behind the Sherpas and lucky to be missed by avalanche.

Eva and Kaji reached the summit at 9:15am and stayed on the top for 10 minutes. Fine weather, light wind but very cold. Down to C3 at 3pm, next day to BC.

According to Black, on the morning of the 8th choppers were shuttling people down from C3 instead of searching for the missing Sherpas. Search and rescue efforts could have started a lot sooner. He states that not all flights were emergencies or medically necessary.

Left BC on 09/04.

Oxygen: Taken and used by Eva and Kaji from C3 to summit and down to C3, by Black and Nima from C3 to HP and down to C3.