원정 개요

Approach: Jeep to Bupsa (below Lukla), trekked to Thengpo via Namche and Thame.

BC 10/10 4330m at Thengpo Lodge
ABC 23/10 5300m at top of rock passage below W Face
Smt 24/10 by all members.

Original plan was to climb South Ridge of Tengi Ragi Tau. While acclimatizing in the vicinity they saw the West Face of Pomlaca and spotted a potential and beautiful line and decided to give this a try instead.

West Face up, East Ridge down. Walked 4 hours from Thengpo Lodge towards Tashi Lapcha Pass. ABC located on top of a rock passage at a snow plateau. On summit day they set off from ABC at 6 am. They first crossed the glacier and bergschrund to get to the face. First part through the West Face, then along SW Ridge to the summit. W Face 70°-80° steep the whole time. Climbing was harder than expected. First three pitches after bergschrund were the most technical and difficult. Mixed climbing. Before exit to SW Ridge there was another technical rock section about Grade 4-5. SW Ridge a bit easier, but first part also quite technical. On the summit at 3 pm. Weather was good, but cold. Stayed on summit around 30 minutes, sunny on the top.

Descent via East Ridge. They had acclimatized on the lower East Ridge before and knew parts of the descent. First part of descent rather easy to down climb. Then more difficult, rappel one pitch. Back to the lodges at Thengpo at 8 pm.

Left BC on 29/10 and trekked back to Lukla and flight to Ramechap.

Route name: Screaming Barfies

Climbing route: West face-SW Ridge up, East Ridge down

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

Records: (Team claims FA but climbed before in 2003 by Czech?)