원정 개요

22-23/10: the group split into 2 groups in order to ascend Yasa Thak (6141m on Finn map, SE shoulder of Tengi Ragi Tau, peak without permit; Schneider map 6180m, 6187m on other map; also called Tengi Ragi Tau South, or Pahamlahaka).

The first group (Cazzanelli, Favre, Gheza) climbed the S Pillar to a shoulder of the SE Ridge, located at c.6000m ESE to the top (from this shoulder, the last bit to the top consisted in a large snow ridge). Route name: “Himalayanos Desperados” (1200m/5+/M5/80°). Enjoyed good rock quality during the climb, with 2 pitches up to 5+ (French rock grade) on first day. Also found 4 pitons obviously put as descent belays (a previous rope had tried the route?). Put a bivouac above that. Had considered the option of staying on the pillar up to the top, but there was a lot of snow, a perturbation announced and it would have meant an other bivouac which the team couldn't afford. So instead, on the second day, the trio chose to turn right into the SE Face to find some quick going mixed ground. As the trio had almost reached the end of the traverse to start with the SE Face, a spontaneous cornice fall followed by rock falls was close to hit them. The would descend in the tracks made by their friends on the E Ridge. Cazzanelli thinks the route could become a local classic, offering a nice climb on good rock close to the lodge.

Meanwhile the 3 other members had been up by the SE Ridge, after having put a camp afoot of the ridge. Reached the same 6000m shoulder, after having broken the trail in big amounts of snow. Even triggered a big avalanche in which they luckily just lost some walking sticks. Delicate snow conditions.

After a short study, it seems that the pitons found on the S Pillar may have left whether by Radek Lienerth and Alexandr Toloch during the first ascent of “Tengi Ragi Tau South” in 2002.