원정 개요

Approach: Left KTM on 01/10. From KTM by car to Tripurakot (3 days). Jeep until end of the road, 1-2 hours after Tripurakot. Then start walking to BC via Hurikot, Toijum, Gauchaur, Toriparta, Rinsa. They got info about the approach from local people who had best info about way.

BC 13/10 4647m at Kanjiroba BC (flat area in the Kanjiroba sanctuary,
just west of Kanjiroba massif)
C1 17/10 5200m
Smt 19/10 by all members at 12:30 pm.

On 18/10 went to glacier up to 5500m to get a good view of the route, back to C1 the same day. On 19/10 conditions were very good and they set off from C1 at 3:30 am. Had to cross an icefall shortly after C1, at 5300-5500m. Apart from that quite easy climb. Team roped up the whole ascent. Went north across the glacier and up the southern slope, until they gained the W Ridge, which they followed to the summit. On the summit at 12:30 pm. Stayed on the top for 15-20 minutes. Not so cold, not so windy, weather was sunny and pleasant.

Down to C1 at approx. 5 pm. On 20/10 to BC.

No Sherpa support, just a guide until base camp.

Left BC on 28/10. After summit they had to stay one week in BC because couldn’t call porters. Satellite phone didn’t work. On 28/10 left BC. Same caravan route back to Hurikot (31/10). To Jumla by Jeep, and bus to Surkhet. From Surkhet bus to KTM.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

Records: First Ascent