원정 개요

Team left high camp at 7 am on 23 Oct, summited at 9 am, stayed about 30 minutes, then descended to ABC at about 8 pm.

We did first ascent on the East Summit Rolwaling Kang, right name I think Rolwaling Khang Shar 6645m. We did climb on the SE contrfort, weather been good, but very cold.


From 7 Summits Club:

Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky named the route of the first ascent on the summit of Rowling Khang Shar "Katana"

http://7summitsclub.com/news/all/item_16472/

On October 23, at 9 o'clock Nepali time, Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky made the first ever ascent on the summit of Rolwaling Kang Shar, with a height of 6645 meters. The length of the route is about 1800m. Three bivouacs. To ABC from the base under the Tashi Lapcha Pass is an 8-hour walk along the Talomban glacier [Dolombao]. "The buttress consists of destroyed granite, it is good that it is fused with ice in many places."

Yuri Koshelenko (mountain.ru): The route "Katana" to Rolvaling Kang Shar, why katana, yes, because it is associated with duty, with the harsh rules of military valor. "Katana" is a samurai sword...

When Alexey and I entered climbing mode, we managed to get out of it only after reaching the top. If I was the first to work on Fang in our previous first ascent, then Alexey was in the lead on this route for the entire rocky part. He was very good at passing long intricate sections of rocks.

Alexey brought with him a completely new Vento equipment, skillfully used it, showed a high level of climbing technique. Sections 5 and 5 + k. sI. M4, M5. We all went free climbing, without using fixed ropes. I happened to be the first to climb on the day of reaching the top through complex conglomerates of crests and mushrooms from icicles and empty snow.