원정 개요

Approach: Plane KTM-Badhrapur, Jeep to Sekatum. 3-day hike to Kangbachen (normal Pangpema BC trail).

BC 09/10 4100m at lodge in Kangbachen
ABC 26/10 5050m in tent underneath the wall at the end of a small side glacier
of Kumbhakarna Glacier
Biv1 27/10 5750m portaledge in the wall
Biv2 28/10 5900m portaledge in the wall
Biv3 29/10 6200m portaledge in the wall
Biv4 30/10 6350m portaledge in the wall
Smt 31/10 by both members at 5 pm.

Alpine-style climb, no Sherpa support.

Had climbed the route in 2023 up to 6100m, when they had to be rescued by helicopter because of AMS. This time they wanted to finish the line.

Wanted to climb fast on the first day, so they fixed three pitches of rope at the beginning of the wall.

On 31/10 to summit and descent to same bivy. Start from bivy 4 at 6:30 am. On top at 5 pm.

8 pitches from bivy to summit. Stayed on the top for 5-10 minutes. Summit is a steep snow cornice, not much space to stand. Exit from north face just 20m far from highest point. Very good weather, not just on summit day, but on whole duration of climb. Back to bivy 4 at 8:30 pm.

On 01/11 down to ABC. Rappels to ABC, same way as ascent. Arrival ABC at 9 pm.

On 02/11 to Kangbachen.

Left BC on 04/11, same caravan route out via Sekatum and Taplejung to Badhrapur.

North Face 70-80° steep. Crux: At 6300m just before bivy 4 mix terrain ice/rock, 80°.

Relatively good protection with nuts, tricams, etc. Single rope climb (9.1mm). For rappels semi-static rope 6mm. They took turns leading the climb. Used G7 pod portaledges on all bivies. North Face relatively safe, not much rockfall. Mostly mixed climbing in lower and upper parts of wall, only in middle part ice climbing.

Rate of climb: ED+ (similar to Eiger, Grandes Jorasses NF).

Name: “North Face Direct”

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Fixed rope: 150m (5200-5350m)

Records: First Ascent

Other peaks: Merra Peak up to 6150m on 18/10 for acclimatization.