원정 개요

Approach: From Kathmandu to Jomson by jeep in two days. Trekked to BC via Tukuche.

BC 01/10 4000m, not far from Tukuche village
ABC 03/10 4600m
Biv1 04/10 5000m in glacial basin
Biv2 10/10 5900m on W Ridge
Biv3 11/10 6200m on W Ridge
HPt 12/10 6600m on W Ridge by both members.

Climb abandoned on 12/10 due to Aoki feeling unwell, maybe altitude sickness.

Members acclimatized on Thorung La and Thapa Peak.

Found old anchor from 1962 first ascent on West Ridge at approximately 6300m. Initial plan was to climb W Face of Nilgiri North, but it looked hard and dangerous, with avalanches and seracs, etc. Instead, they decided to tackle W Ridge.

On 04/10 did acclimatization rotation to bivy 1 location. Fixed two pitches of rope below bivy 1 and one pitch above bivy 1. 180m of rope in total. Next day climbed higher to 5200m and directly down to BC.

On 06-08/10 rested in BC.

On 09/10 went directly up to bivy 1.

On 10/10 to bivy 2.

On 11/10 to bivy 3. Set off from bivy 3 at 5 am on 12/10.

On 12/10 tried to summit, reached highpoint 6600m at 11 am.

Aoki felt unwell (possibly altitude sickness). Also, it was getting late, and they were unsure if they could make it safely back to the bivouac after the summit. They decided to retreat. Back to bivy 3 at 5 pm and spent the night there.

Next day down to BC.

Spent 3 days in BC and thought of having another attempt on the summit. But eventually decided to abandon climb.

Left BC on 17/10 to Tukuche for a few days.

On 20/10 to Pokhara by jeep and on 21/10 to Ktm.

Climbing route: West Ridge

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Fixed rope: 180m

Other peaks: Thapa Peak (Dhampus Peak) on 26/09.