원정 개요

Alpine style above ABC.

7 Nov went north to NE Ridge to see route up North Face; west to 5100m on ridge and rapelled down to ABC. 9 Nov to BC and raining in mid-afternoon (start of great storm of 9-10 Nov); stayed at BC on 11th to dry everything and 12th to Namche because too much snow up above and back to BC. 13th at BC. 14th to ABC but nothing there in 3-4 meters of snow of huge avalanche so back to BC. 15th up to look for ABC tents in Parechu Khola, where was lot of avalanche debris but no tents. 16th again BC to ABC, borrowing 4 shovels; made 16 holes in snow but could find nothing of camp and back to BC. 17th Profit to Kathmandu to get more gear from his drums [containers] (others to Kala Patar). All returned to Namche used as base 22 Nov with no tented BC. Had to wait for nearly week for snow conditions. 26 Nov to Hongu in local house. 26th 4:00 pm to bottom face, at 7:00 am 27th arrived at bottom. 8:00 am went on to face with all gear and made 1st biv on North Face at 3:00 pm. Route was technical from bottom of face with 80-85 degree ice climbing at start and then 300m above bottom of face not nearly so steep most of rest of distance to 1st biv. 28th very difficult section so gained only 200m with very difficult very technical 2 pitches of poor ice but could make good platform for 2nd biv. 29th made route to East Summit Kwangde Shar (Jeff Lowe had made route to West Summit Kwangde Lho and arrived on East Ridge of Kwangde Shar). 30th Ruby not well, so he and Beauzey descended after 1 hour's climb towards summit to biv and on down mountain while Profit and Rhem reached top at 1:00 pm and down (all down NE Ridge to biv together at 5000m on East Face of NE Ridge. 1st Dec to Namche and 2nd to Kathmandu.

Difficulty same as Droit in Alps - "very nice route."