원정 개요

BC south-southwest of main peak near glacier.

After Sept 30 bad weather (snow and avalanche danger) so all in C1. On Oct 6 went to make C3 and 4 members Fujita, Hase, Kanazawa and Morisato carried personal equipment to go to C3 and other 4 members in support carrying supplies of food and tents with 2 Sherpas resting in BC for 1st summit attack after 5-6 days.

1st team reached 6300m at flat place. 9:10 am one member slipped; all roped together and expected him to stop himself but he did not and pulled others (not strong belay because seemed safe place). All 4 slipped 200m. Hase died 9:15 am and Fujita 5 pm in tent near where he lay unable to move him.

Kanazawa injured unable to go down from where Fujita died, but Morisato went down to C2 on 7 Oct. Helicopter went to C1 on 9 Oct which evacuated Kanazawa.

Yes - want to do it [again] in 1985 or 1986.

Route followed is easiest routes on Himalchuli.


Mrs Otsu - 10 Oct 83

Kanazawa has some fractures and breathing problem. Morisato in better condition. Kanazawa in Otsu's house and stays here at least 3-4 more days.

Expedition abandoned. Others arrive KTM 18 Oct.