원정 개요

Gilbert and Pasang Kidar left high capm at 3:55 amd on 10 Oct. Summited at 12:07 and stayed 20-30 minutes. Decended to high camp, and then packed up and dropped to base camp. Reached high camp at 4:30 pm Nepal time, then base camp at 5:30 pm.

"We ascended to the glacier base (~5150m) on rock from our high camp (and last week's snow). From there we ascended the glacier, navigating around crevasses and seracs to a bench at 5490m, and then headed southward to climb a glacial bulge to 5800m. From there, we headed 60m up the NW Ridge directly, which we followed over several steep sections to reach the final ridge (6070m) which we traversed (300m) over several false summits, to reach the true summit (6125m). We descended the same route. From 5700m upward, we were in 0.5m to 1.5m faceted snow. Anchors were not possible in the conditions we found."

Gilbert shared a permit with a Japanese team climbing with fixed ropes and climbing Sherpas. They attempted to summit the day after us and made it to ~5600m (Sherpa team fixed to 5700m). They turned around because of cold and safety concerns over current conditions for their members.