원정 개요

Pablo Esteban Castan:

I managed to do two attempts at Ama Dablam. The first was when I arrived at Camp 2 to sleep and the next day I tried to reach the summit. The route beyond 5900 was not fixed, so I went down to BC and rested. The second time, doing BC-C2 and C2-Summit, resting for a few hours at C2, when I was already at about 6500, one of the stakes that held a section of rope on a snow slope of about 50 degrees broke. After rolling a few meters and getting soaked, I decided to descend to avoid frostbite and, above all, because of the absolute loss of confidence in the fixing team. During the descent, already aware of the danger of trusting in such precarious anchors, I tried to climb down as much as I could and only rappel when necessary. During the ascent, in my opinion, the ideal thing is to join the rope with a Microtraxion and climb the route "toprope solo".


Genis Zapater Bargues:

Everest is indisputably the king of the Himalayas. It gathers all the looks and longings, since the grandiloquence of its presence overwhelms the mountain, the climber and even the bravest cloud that dares to approach it. But with the same certainty I can say that the princess of the Himalayas is Ama Dablam. The braided blond hair that the princess lets fall from the tower so that the knight can climb and rescue her is the braided icebreaker that Ama Dablam also throws, not suggesting but challenging the knight or knightess to climb it. I have been the brave one who, accepting the duel, climbed Ama Dablam. A fight at 6,800 meters high, an ascent of 2500 meters positive, 12 hours and 18 kilometers that took me, non-stop, from Base Camp to the summit and back to the safety and comfort of Base Camp.