원정 개요

Gheorghe Badea FB page:

AMA DABLAM 2024 HIMALAYA
Celebrated the birthday at work yesterday Actually the climb to the summit began on 31 Oct at 22.30 from Camp 1 (5800m). Shortly after the start, Drago invokes respiratory discomfort and makes the way back. However successful, if it's going to be, it will be as a team, so we decide to continue. In the distance you can see the lanterns of those who have left the upper camps.

At 00.30 we were leaving Camp 2 (6050m) and entering Gray Coulior. In front of the Yellow Tower, which is shorter and more climbable, this vertical corridor of almost 100m is mixed, cliff and ice. At least in the lower half, I recommend the amateurs not to use the corners. You can walk a lot more loosely on boots. At 3.30 we were passing Camp 3 (6400m) and entering the last icy face towards the summit, which required 4 hours of sustained effort. Never ending! Long, with few crossings, a few over crevases. Other than that, a lot of vertical. But it was worth the effort, especially for the landscape that opens from above. Mountains, as far as you can see, including Everest. Superb!! The retreat took a long wait because of the crowdedness on the trails between the camps, but I managed to get to Base Camp by evening.


Jo Bradshaw FB pages:

November 11, 2024, Tales from the Ama Dablam trail - I’ve now lost count!

A BIG thumbs up from Terry and Pemba at 6812m, from Hira, Christine and myself at 6600m, from Kurtus at 5600m and the incredible team at Ama Dablam base camp. We said our fond and sad goodbyes to our truly amazing team this morning as we strode off down the mountain with big smiles and so many happy memories.

This expedition has been a passion project for me. My 3rd time tackling this mountain and it was a large crevasse which stopped play for Christine and I (more about that gaping void in my next post). We are so happy that Team Ninja had members on the summit on Friday morning as we snuck in just as the weather window started to close for a while.

We are now in the relative warmth and oxygenated realms of Pangboche, with the luxury of a sit down toilet and solid walls around us.

November 12, 2024

I have had a few lovely people ask ‘if Terry and Pemba managed to cross the crevasse and make the summit then why couldn’t you, Christine and Hira?’
Good question, so here is the answer.

Terry and Pemba were moving faster than our merry gang so managed to cross the crevasse just after sunrise when it was still solid. It was a struggle going up, co-ordinating the upward jump in very thin air whilst sliding your jumar up the 50 degree rope/slope and hoping not to fall in. They managed it. Some did not and struggled to pull themselves over the lip of the crevasse onto the upper slope.
No-one fell down into the crevasse as you are always attached to the fixed line by your safety line and jumar but it’s a scary experience dangling in the mouth of a crevasse and takes a huge amount of effort to clamber out.

Another couple of hours later T&P were standing in the summit of Ama Dablam and a further hour on, in the relative heat of the morning jumped down the 3m wide gap on ever softening snow.

As we were heading up to the crevasse a few climbing Sherpas has stopped me and Hira to say that the crevasse was too wide and soft for us to cross it. I was keen to have a look so we continued to climb up where we met Pemba and Terry, crevasse acrobatics just completed.

It was 9am, the sun was softening the snow and even if we had been able to cross the crevasse upwards, by the time we came back down it would have been impassable. As soon as I saw the width, soft snow and angle of slope I said no. Pemba and Hira emphatically agreed and with a heavy heart, so did Christine.

The lower side of that crevasse became our personal summit and we made friends with that.