원정 개요

Yalung Peak is unlisted and required a permit for Kangbachen.

BC 26/04 5125m
ABC 03/05 5600m
C1 14/05 6100m (bivouac)
HPt 14/05 6100m by all members

On the approach march the porters dumped their gear on the glacier which two of their kitchen boys brought up over the following three days.

On 28/04 they visited Kangchenjunga BC for acclimatization.

On 03/05 they found the route to their ABC which was very difficult given the condition of the glacier. On 04/05 they climbed up for about 200m to have a look at the colouir and returned to BC where they stayed until 12/05 as the weather was very bad with a lot snow. On 13/05 they ascended to ABC where they spent the night. On 14/05, they climbed up to 6100m. The snow was terrible as it was soft on the top and hard on the bottom. The crampons did not grip. Two avalanches came down the couloirs, and the whole climb was dangerous. Nives was hit by a rock on her head, but fortunately she wore a helmet and was unscathed. They climbed from 7:30 am to 3 pm. It was difficult to find a good place to set up their bivouac and the place they finally set it up seemed quite dangerous. They spent a rather sleepless night there. On 15/05 they descended to BC as fast as they could as the conditions on the mountain were just too dangerous to spend any more time there.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Climb abandoned due to dangerous conditions and bad weather.

Sherpas: None