원정 개요

Report from Anja Blacha:

Approach: By plane to Biratnagar and by jeep to Tumlingtar on 20/04, drove to Num on 21/04, then trekked on common itinerary to BC.

BC 26/04 5650m
C1 29/04 6300m
C2 30/04 6600m
C3 05/05 7450m
Smt 12/05 by Blacha at 1:40 pm.

Blacha started summit push on 11/05 at 8 pm from C3. Reached the top at 1:40 pm on 12/05. Maybe stayed on the top for 10 minutes, she was the last climber on the summit that day. Back to C3 for the night at 9 pm. Next day down to BC. On 15/05 by heli to KTM via Lukla.

Sherpas above BC: 0
Oxygen: Not taken, not used
Records: 1st German female to summit Makalu without oxygen
Other peaks: Kangchenjunga


Report from Flor Cuenca:

Approach: Heli to Hillary BC

BC 25/04 4800m
ABC 27/04 5700m
C1 6300m
C2 02/05 6600m
C3 04/05 7500m
C4 7800m
Smt 06/05 by Cuenca at 1 pm.

On 05/05, Flor rested at C3 and on 05/05 she started her summit push from C3 at 8:20 pm. She was with Ali Pepper and Mikel Sherpa. Straightforward climb. Good conditions. No wind, but very cold. She spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C3 where she arrived at 7 pm. On 07/05 descended to BC. Left BC on 08/05, walked to Hillary Camp; on 10/05 heli to Lukla.

Sherpas above BC: 0
Oxygen: Not taken, not used


Report from Dorota Rasinska-Samocko

Approach: Heli to Hillary BC

BC 24/04 4800m
ABC 26/04 5700m
C1 -- 6300m
C2 28/04 6600m
C3 03/05 7500m
C4 -- 7800m
Smt 12/05 by Dawa Nurbu and Rasinska at 8 am.

On 29/04 during the first rotation Rasinska descended to BC. On 02/05 she ascended to C2 and on 03/05 to C3. She wanted to attempt the summit on 04/05, but when she reached 8200m, the weather was too bad to continue. Her Sherpa Phurba Sherpa was very slow so they returned to C3. On 06/05 back to BC.

On 10/05 Rasinska and Dawa Nurbu ascended to C2; on 11/05 C3. They left C3 at 8 pm on 11/05 and reached the summit 12 hours later. There were about 10 other people on the route. They spent about 25 minutes on the summit and descended to C3 where they arrived at 5 pm. The descent was difficult due to bad visibility and the fixed lines were covered by the snow. On 13/05 they descended to BC. Left BC on 15/05 by heli.

Oxygen: Taken and used from upper C3 at 7700m to top to 7700m by Rasinska and Dawa Nurbu.


Report from Bartek Ziemski/Oswald Rodrigo Pereira:

Approach: Trek Num to BC

BC 21/04 4800m
ABC 22/04 5700m
C1 24/04 6300m
C2 25/04 6600m
C3 03/05 7500m
C4 -- 7800m
Smt 11/05 by Ziemski and Pereira at 10:40 am.

The first summit push was on 05/05 from C3. They reached 7950m; Bartek did not feel very well and they returned to BC the same day. Bartek skied from C3 to BC. They rested till 10/05 and they climbed to C3 in one go 10/05. They took 12 hours to the Makalu La. On 10/05 they left C3 at 10 pm. It was warm and foggy. It was dry and icy. Bad visibility. There were about 5 people in front of them.

Ziemski carried his skis all the way to the summit. They spent about 30 mins on the summit. Ziemski put his skis on and traversed back on the ridge. He clipped into the rope for safety and skied the very beginning of the couloir until maybe 8220m. He had to take off his skis and rappel to about 8200m from where he skied all the way to C3 (he reached it at about 1 pm) to wait for Pereira who reached C3 at 6 pm. When he skied down from the Makalu he skied in the couloirs right of the ascending route which we think Adrian Ballinger skied down. They stayed the night at C3.

On 12/05 Ziemski skied all the way to C1 where he took off his skis and rappelled down across the ice from about 6300m to 6250m, from where he skied all the way to crampon point. Pereira walked down and reached BC at about 4 pm. Left BC on 15/05 by heli.

Sherpas above BC: 0
Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Team is now heading to Kangchenjunga to ski.