원정 개요

Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

BC at east of glacier (beside glacier).

No plan to put a C4 on ridge. Started from C3 on 27 Oct at 5:30 am and 2 from biv at 6590m at 6:30 am. On top 4:05 pm by all 4 summiters: biv men had to make route so moved more slowly then C3 men, who caught up with them. Strong wind but clear. Minami and Lama returned to C3 while other 3 to biv.

S Ridge would be terribly difficult: glacier at bottom "not so good" and then difficult rock face below ridge itself. East Ridge is only route.

From C3 to top along ridge difficult ice conditions (with soft snow over hard ice). Beyond C2 very sharp rock ridge which had to go round. Most difficult part of climb of climb was very steep final ridge.

No serious accidents. One Sherpa hurt finger with ice axe and could no longer bend it.

Leader did not take part in climbing at all.