원정 개요

Report from Piotr Krzyzowski:

BC 21/04 5350m
C1 25/04 5800m
C2 26/04 6440m
C3 28/04 7300m
C4 06/05 7800m (Lhotse)
Smt 21/05 by Krzyzowski at 3 pm (LHOTSE)
Smt 23/05 by Krzyzowski st 2 pm (EVEREST)

Krzyzowski climbed without Sherpa support or supplemental oxygen.

On his first rotation, he spent 2 nights at C2 and one night at C3. He carried two tents, gas, stove, food, downsuit with him. On 29/04 he returned to BC.

On 04/05 ascent to C2; on 05/05 to C3; on 06/05 he ascended to Lhotse C4 to spend the night. On 07/05 he dismantled his tent from Lhotse C4 and ascended to the South Col, where he spent 4 to 5 hours to acclimatize. There were no tents at the South Col as it was so early in the season. He left his tent, gas and some food at the South Col in a bag which he put underneath an oxygen bottle. He descended to C2 and on 08/05 descended to BC.

Summit Push: C2 18/05; C3 19/05; C4 20/05. He left C3 at 6:09 am. It took him 9 hours to the Lhotse summit. The conditions were a bit tricky as the ground was no longer frozen due to the unusal warmth, but otherwise straightforward climb. He spent about 20 minutes on the summit. He had planned to go directly to the South Col but as he was worried that his deposited bag might have got stolen or blown away at the South Col, he decided to descend to Lhotse C4 where he arrived at 8 pm and stayed the night.

On 22/05, he left Lhotse C4 with all his equipment for the South Col at 3 pm and reached the South Col at 7 pm where he could not find his deposited bag. As there were many tents up there, he used one of Furtenbach Adventures where he rested and melted some snow to drink. He left C4 at 11:30 pm. It was not that busy on the route and he was never in a traffic jam. He spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4 where he arrived at 7 pm and spent the night there in Furtenbach Adventure’s tent. On 24/05 he descended to BC.

Frostbite: Krzyzowski used the Polish system of socks/plastic bag/socks, but unfortunately the plastic bags had slid down and no longer covered his whole feet. When he slept at C4 he did not take off his inner boots and did not see his feet. On his descent to BC, he stopped at C2 where he took off his boots and realised that he had frostbite on his big and second toe on both feet. He spent one night at C2 and was taken down to BC and then to Kathmandu by helicopter on 24/05. He is at ERA hospital and treated for Grade 2 frostbite.