원정 개요

BC in valley at head of stream just East of Tilicho Peak
C1 on subsidiary summit on approach to South Ridge
C2 on a subsidiary ridge leading to South Ridge
C3 on SE Ridge
C4 on SE Ridge
High point at South Ridge.

No problem getting porters to high BC on arrival and departure despite a foot of snow at BC on departure. Very complicated mountain with lots of spurs on S Face. Tried different approach to S Ridge from last year's British team, probably lost 10 days doing so in order to get on to S Ridge proper & this probably why failed to reach summit. Was some avalanche activity with collapse of big serac & then snow avalanches from frequent new snowfall. Quite a lot of technical climbing from C3 to C4. Fixed rope mostly above C2 but only in various places. Could well have used more for abseiling down but were saving remaining 500 feet of rope for use higher up. Stopped climb on 17th Nov because would have taken 10 more days to top & didn't have resources (especially gas) for that many more days & only 2 members feeling strong enough to try, plus communications problem with members lower down who had started clearing camps. Had asked for 2 weeks extension of time because of very frequent snowfall in early Nov. Received 1 week's extension.

*Peak this team attempted is mountain designated as Nemjung on Annapurna Conservation Area map. Knew what they were attempting was called Nemjung on map but attempted this peak because all others in previous years had done so and theirs only information this team had to go on. In UK before coming to Nepal had discussed this map situation with leader of last year's British team, Richard Emerson, concluded map was wrong and thought no more about it.

*"Japanese probably have a fair claim" to being first to climb true Himlung - "no reason map should be wrong."

Hudd and Ottewell would like to return to same mountain next autumn and make two-man alpine-style ascent of same route.